Historic Site of Anti-Mongolian Struggle in Hangpadu-ri, Jeju

The Hangpadu-ri Hangmong(Anti-Mongolian) Ruins in Hangpadu-ri, Jeju, was designated as Historic Site No. 396 on April 18, 1997, as the last bastion of the Sahmbyeolcho special unit forces, who, in February of the 11th year of King Wonjong of Goryeo-Korea (1270), fought to the last against the Yeomong Allied Forces led by King Kim Banggyeong of Goryeo-Korea and Mongol General Heundo after Goryeo-Korean King signed a treaty with the General of the Mongol Army in Ganghwa and turned from Ganghwa to Gaekyung. All of them died in the 14th year of King Wonjong (1273).

The bastion is located about 190 to 215 meters above sea level, with Goseongcheon Stream to the east and Sowangcheon Stream to the west. The terrain is north-south and north-south, with a steep slope near the earthen ramparts in the north, a gentle slope in the east, and a stream in the west, which is naturally suitable for building a bastion. The overall topography consisted of yellowish-brown soil with some gravel, which was very sticky and suitable for building a bastion.

There are partial remains of the bastion, such as foundation stones, broken pieces of roof tiles, porcelain shards, a pond site, and ancient pieces. Main facilities are the administrative office, rest area, exhibition hall, Suneuy Gate, and Suneuy Monument.

From 1977 to the present, annual maintenance projects such as land purchase for restoration of bastion, and (municipal) excavation projects have been carried out. In particular, as a result of the excavation of the Hangmong (Anti-Mongolian) Site in Hangpadu-ri in 2011, the scale of the inner bastion, the center of Hangpadu earthen ramparts, the existence of major facilities (buildings) and various artifacts were confirmed, thence providing concrete archaeological evidences of the Sahmbyeolcho special unit forces’ anti-Mongolian rebellion in Jeju.

* Anti-Mongolian Suneuy Monument: A monument erected to honor the souls of the Sahmbyeolcho special unit forces who fought the Mongols. The Korean inscription on the surface of the monument, "Hangmong Suneuybi," is in the handwriting of the late president Chunghee Park.

* Earthen Ramparts: General Tongjeong Kim built earthen ramparts at Hangpadu-ri to fight against the Yeomong Allied Forces.

* Foundation stones: Supposedly, Sahmbyeolcho special forces had used them as the foundation stones of the four gates of Hangpadu Bastion. Currently, 10 stones are preserved.

* Target Rock: A giant standing stone used by Sahmbyeolcho soldiers at the Geukrock-Paradise Peak as a target for practicing archery. It is said that arrowheads were embedded in the surface of the rock.

* Jangsumul (General’s Waterspout): when General Kim Tongjeong jumped off a rampart while being chased by the Central Command, the tracks of his footprints were said to be left on the rock, causing water to spring up in the area.

* Gusimul (Well): Well used as drinking water for civilians and soldiers outside the bastion.

* Ongseongmul (Spring): A spring located in the grounds of the Geukrock-Paradise Temple in the north of Hangpadu Bastion, used by the superiors of the Sahmbyeolcho special unit forces for drinking during the rebellion.

* Pagunbong [Bahgumji Oreum](Hill): Pagunbong is a hill about 100 meters above sea level and is the battlefield where Sahmbyeolcho special unit forces fought against the landing of the Yeomong Allied Forces.

* Goseongcheon-stream and Sowangcheon-stream : Two streams surrounding Hangpadu Bastion on the east and the west side of the bastion, forming a natural defense.

Jusahngjeolli Natural monuments

Jeju Jungmun-Daepo Coast Jusahngjeolli is located along the coast of Jungmun-dong and Daepo-dong in the city of Seogwipo. It is about 3.5 kilometers long, and the surface of the lava has a rough surface due to the formation of clinker, but in the cross section, which represents the middle part of the lava unit that appeared due to wave erosion, beautiful mural-like volcanic ribs are well developed.

The volcanic ribs are as tall as 20 meters or so, with clear and varied stone columns from the top to the bottom. Those along the seamounts are mainly vertical or horizontal in some places, and the upper section is square-shaped or hexagonal. Due to the erosion, their appearance is well observed on the tourist ship. They are so closely adjacent to each other, giving them a sculptural appearance.

Jeju Jungmun-Daepo Coast Jusahngjeolli is one of important natural resource that can be used to study and observe the geological phenomena that occur when basalt lava solidifies and the subsequent development of coastal terrain by erosion, thence having outstanding academic value and scenic beauty.

Jeju-mok Governor’s Office

Once the center of Jeju's regional governance of Joseon-Korea, Jeomok Gwanah (Governor’s Office) was the major government facilities complext, including the present-day Gwandeokjeong (Treasure No. 322). It served as the political, administrative, and cultural center of Jeju from the Tamra Kingdom to Joseon-Korea.

It began its history in 1434 (16th year of King Sejong’s reign) after a fire that destroyed all of its buildings, and the structure was built in 1435. It was expanded and renovated throughout the Joseon period. However, the majority of Jeju-mok Gwanah facilities was destroyed during the period of Japanese Occupation. Now, no trace of it can be found except for Gwandeokjeong.

Jeju City conducted four excavations from 1991 to 1998, and confirmed the location and scale of the Dongheon and Naea building sites, which were the main facilities of Jeju Mok Gwan-ah, along with various cultural layers from the Tamra period to the Joseon period.

On March 30, 1993, the area around the site of Jeju-Mok Gwana was designated as Historic Site No. 380. The foundation and base stones were identified during the excavation process, and the restoration work was completed in December 2002 after consultation with the Central Cultural Property Commissioner, local historians, and experts, examining 『Tamra History Map』 and 『Tamra Defense General Register』.

* Oedamun (外大門): The gatehouse, leading to the Jeju-Mok Gwanah building

The outer gate is also known as 'Jinhaeru' and 'Tamra Pojeongsa' in the literature. It is said to have been built as the gateway to Gwanah in 1435 when Honghwagak was founded, and then rebuilt in 1699 by Governor Nam Jihun. The two-story pavilion was also utilized as a bell tower.

*Yeonhygak Tall Building (延曦閣): Jeju Governo's Main Office

Yeonhygak was the Governor’s maing office, called Sahngah’s Dongheon and Governor’s Jeongah. Sahngah of adminstrative affairs was distinguished from Jeongah of judicial affairs. According to Governor YI Wonjo's "Records of Yanxi Building," "Yanxi Building has no written records, so the date of its construction cannot be known in detail. We don't know who named it and who wrote the plaque. The building is built high on a pavilion with overlapping eaves and a deep roof. It was named Yanxi to express the sincerity of the local Governor’s loyalty."

*Honghwagak (弘化閣): A hall where monks used to do their work. It was founded in 1435, and then rebuilt in 1648 and in 1713. The name “Honghwagak Hall” was given to pray for the king's virtue to spread to the people. It was also called “Tamra Gogak Hall” and an outstanding building among the Gwanah buildings.

* Wulyeongdang Hall (友蓮堂) is a pavilion and banquet hall that was built in 1526 by Governor YI Sudong, who said that without a well in the premise, it would be difficult to rescue people when enemies invaded and surrounded the complex or when a fire broke out. Thus, so he ordered servants to dig a pond, water it, and plant lotus flowers. Later, during the reign of King Yeongjo, Governor KIM rebuilt the pavilion with a rock in the middle of the pond, planted flowers and bamboo. He renamed it “the Incense Room,” and used it as a place to make tributes.

* Yeongju Gyodang Office (瀛洲協堂): It was originally a government office where military officers worked. The date of its founding is uncertain, but it became a military government office when the former military government office was separated into Yeong and Mok. The number of military officers was originally 15, but in the early years of King Hyojong, the number was reduced to 10 at the suggestion of YI Kyungyeok, a secret inspector.

*Gulimdang (橘林堂): It was used as a place to play Go or the lyre, write poetry, or drink alcohol. It was rebuilt in 1743 by Governor AHN Gyeongwun, and after being rebuilt again in 1769 and in 1842.

*Mangyeongru Tower (望京樓): It was a tower to honor the king's virtue by relying on the North Star to look at Seoul, where the king lives. It was founded in 1556 by Governor KIM Sumun and rebuilt in 1668 and in 1806. It is also used as a watch-tower to keep an eye on warships invading the coast of Jeju.

*Corridor: It was a long house on the left and right sides of the main hall. Originally, the corridor would have been walled off to serve as rooms or other purposes, but they have been restored as open spaces.

*Jungdaemun Gate (中大門): It is the main entrance to Gwanah, located in the middle of the outer and inner gates, leading to Dongheon.

Samseonghyeol refers to the three holes from which the ancestors of Goh, Yang, and Bu clans of Jeju Island rose up.

Reportedly, the three ancestors wore leather clothes and hunted meat for a living, then married three princesses from Byeokranguk-nation, who brought seeds of five grains and calves and colts, respectively, and began farming. The holes are arranged in the shape of 品, but only one of three leads to the sea, and the traces of the two remain.

In the 21st year of King Jungjong’s reign of Joseon-Korea (1526), a stone table and a stele were erected to hold a memorial service of ancestors, and a fence was built around it. Services are held in spring and fall.

Brief History of Tamraguk-Nation

Tamraguk was also written as Tammoraguk, Seopra, Damra, and Takra. It was called this for a long time, from the Three Kingdoms period to the early Goryeo and Joseon periods.

According to the geographical part of "Goryeo History," three brothers, Gofu, Gochung, and their brother, the 15th generation's grandson of Goeolna, one of the progenitors of Jeju Island's three surnames, built a ship and traveled across the sea to Tamjin. At that time, the Shilla Kingdom was at the height of its power. When the three brothers came in and offered a tribute, the King of Shilla was pleased and gave the eldest Gofu the title of Seongju (星主), the second Gochang, the title of Prince (王子), and the youngest, the title of Tonae (都內), and named their country Tamra.

This is where the name Tamra came from, which actually means 'island nation'. The date of its establishment is believed to be during the time of King Munmu, since the period called Shilla Seongsi was after the unification of the Three Kingdoms. Prior to this, there seems to have been a joint confederation of three clans, and by the time of the unification by Shilla Kingdom, the Go clan, the strongest of the three, was ruling as a military commander and became the sovereign.

According to the legend, at first, the ancestors of the three clans, Goeulna, Yangna, and Bueulna, emerged from the Moheunghyeol or Sahmseonghyeol (毛興穴, 三姓穴), and their descendants lived as a nation. According to the records, the people were short in stature, their language was not the same as the Han race; they wore clothes made of dog and pig skins; they raised cattle and pigs well; there were many roe deer and deer; their customs were simple and crude; they lived in thatched huts in summer and dugouts in winter.

The book of Dongyi (The Barbarians of the East) in the History of Three Kingdoms  refered to them as "the Zhuhos" and said that they traveled to China and three kingdoms of the Korean peninsula by boat for trading. In recent years, Chinese coins have been unearthed, such as the Osujeon coins and Hwacheon coins.

Foreign relations were first made with Baekje, the closest geographically, and in April 476 (King Munju 2), an envoy was dispatched to offer the tribute of Bahngmul (local products). In return, the envoy received the title of Japyeong. In August 498 (King Dongseong 20), when he heard that King Dongseong of Baekje was planning to conquer him personally, he sent an envoy to apologize and promised to pay for his dues.

They traded with Goguryeo by exporting tiles, but negotiations ceased after they were subjugated to Baekje. On the other hand, Tamra became a vassal state of Shilla in February 662 (King Munmu 2) when the Tamra king, Japyeong Dodongyun (徒冬音律), came and surrendered. Later, after staying close to Japan, they received the advice of the Shilla envoy in February 678. After this, they actively interacted with Shilla.

Meanwhile, with the Tang Dynasty of China, King Yuridora sent an envoy in August 661. Also, with Japan, after the Japanese envoy's ship returning from the Tang Dynasty in 661 encountered a storm and was evacuated to Tamra, nine people, including the prince Apaki(阿波伎)  followed them to Japan. Since then, many princes and dignitaries traveled to Japan. There are also records that envoys came from Japan in September 680 and August 686.

In the late Shilla period, the kingdom gradually broke away from its vassalage and sought to establish friendly relations with Goryeo, a rising power, so in November 925 , an envoy was sent to offer tribute. In December 938, the king of Tamra, Gojagyeon, dispatched his prince, Mahllo, to join him and received the title of Seongju-Prince from Goryeo, following the example of Shilla, and maintained an independent system as a vassal state of Goryeo. After that, in 1105 (Sookjong 10), the semi-independent system disappeared when it was reorganized into Tamra county, a local administrative division of Goryeo.

In 1153 (Uijong 7), Tamra County was downgraded again and became Tamra Prefecture, and from then on, a prefect dispatched by the Goryeo court was in charge of Tamra's administrative affairs. As a result, the Tamra state system ceased to exist, and only the offices of the lord and prince remained symbolic.

After the founding of  Joseon Kingsom, in May 1404 (Taejong 4), the lord was renamed Zhoadojigwan (the left city governor) and the prince was renamed Wudojigwan ( the right city governor), but even this was abolished in June 1445 (27th year of King Sejong's reign), and from this point on, the noble class of Tamra became complete civilians.

Yakcheonsa Temple is famous for its main hall with 29 meters high, which is the tallest in the East. It is said to be named Yakcheonsa because of its pond with high quality spring water, medicinal for the sick.